![]() ![]() It stops them from jumping the trap and keeps the birds off of the bait, and boughs are on site, boxes are heavy to carry. I use spruce or balsam Boughs to cover bait and wire them so they cover the bait and hang over the top of trap. If you use a pole set, make sure your bait is close to the trap, so they will not try to jump over your trap. ![]() I’ve caught many fisher in my area in dirt hole sets made for fox and coyotes.īeavermeat bait is king, and anything with a skunk smell for call lure, but fisher also have a sweet tooth. I set on vertical to 45 degree angle poles and trees. I primarily use versions of the running pole set, mostly because of the snow we receive in northern NY. I use 4’-5’ of cable to fasten trap because in NY it is illegal to suspend any trapped animal. Also, there are Marten where I trap so it works for both species. In NY you can set these on the ground, anything over that width needs to be set back in a box or at least 4’ off the ground. I have started to use more 155 body grippers because of the 5.5 “ jaw spread. The answers I have given above are just what have worked for me.įirst you need to check the regulations of the state you are going to trap. Good luck on your venture since I think the fisher is one of the coolest critters to run the woods.ĭisclaimer: I'm not much of a trapper so take my advice with a grain of salt. I don't know where you intend to trap but the 120's in tubes or boxes should be legal and pretty dog-safe in most states I would think.Īlso, depending on the state the limits (especially here) are pretty small so catching large numbers would not be much of an option, I would not think. ![]() Two sets are better than one simply because you are covering more area in your location and doubles are possible but unlikely where I live. I apply a large amount of Gusto to the tree above the set and a tiny amount in the back of the box. I drill a hole through the box/tube and run a long stake through it that also anchors the trap and box at the same time so critters can't roll or move the box.īeaver is best bait and as much as you can stand to fit in the back of your box and still be able to lift it. On my boxes I like many big holes drilled in the back but wire would work as well. On the ground you will probably have a higher percentage especially with the larger males but leaning poles have also worked for me. On the smaller bodygrippers (120's, etc) I like pans. A 160 covers anything and gives them a bigger opening. I think they do force their way though anyway. You should be able to get most fishers in the 120's with pans but a big male's head barely fits through one. While I have not caught a ton of them I have formed a few opinions on what works best for me. You ask excellent questions and they tell me you already know plenty about how to approach catching fishers. Re: Fisher Trappers - Could use some help please?!?! Two sets per location or just one? How much distance between set locations (just talking general here)?Īnything else that is a must do or definitely don't do? When applying lure do I put it inside the box or smear it on an adjacent log or tree? If boxes, should it be solid or wire back?ĭo I stake the box down and attach the trap to it? Or cable the trap off and just lay the box on the ground? Is it better to set them on the ground with boxes or leaning poles exposed trap? I've never seen or held one that wasn't skinned so not sure what to expect. ![]() What is the smallest size coni a fisher will willingly work a high percentage of the time? The smaller trap I can productively use the more options that will be available for set construction. Hopefully going to try in 2020.Ĭould some of you guys who've successfully trapped them before please point me in the right direction (Minnesota Boys). I've always wanted to catch a fisher or two. ![]()
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